We’ve been getting many questions about how to transport or travel with your horse, so we reached out to our good friend Elly Schoebel for some tips and here’s what she had to say:

As a breeder and competitor I often trailer horses…broodmares with foals, yearlings and two year- olds to their first breeding shows. My truck and trailer are used frequently, so oil changes, tire pressure, greased ball bearings/trailer hitches are a monthly routine. In addition, cleaning the inside of your trailer is a must to provide cleanliness and safety. Here are a few other tips I have gathered over the years:

1. PLEASE, PLEASE use proper footwear when loading (or handling) any horse. Solid paddock boots, preferably waterproof (I like the zipper versions, fast to get on) and a pair of sturdy gloves (leather gloves are my favorite) should be standard equipment.

2. I prefer leather halters, or nylon halters with a leather crown piece because in an emergency, these halters break. Usually I use a plain cotton lead rope, but always have a 6′ leather lead with a chain in my trailer tack room – young colts can get pretty rude at times and I want to be ready to ‘explain’ to them, who actually runs the show.

3. My 3-4 year olds learn early on, that shipping halters and shipping boots are part of their trailering experience – again, protection is of utmost importance to me and I will take a lot of time to introduce my youngsters to all the equipment PRIOR to loading them. They usually spent some time in the wash/grooming stalls, wearing everything. Once this is not big issue anymore, we move on to loading.

4. Loading is always done with an older horse provided to give ‘a lead’ to the younger horse – taking time to train horses to load, without the stress of having to be at the show at a certain time, makes the entire experience less stressful.

5. Make sure that your trailer in good working condition. This includes:
• clean, filled with fresh shavings (or straw)
• all moving parts, such as partitions, chains, trailer ties which are not in use are secured
• trailer hitch is in working condition, property oiled/greased, in the correct position to pull the trailer in an optimal (level) position
• electric system, including brakes and trailer lights (inside and outside) work

6. For any trip, have a couple of clean 5 gallon water containers with you. Some horses will not drink water that tastes different then at home – and a dehydrated horse is never a good thing on the road.

7. Hay nets – I personally prefer the newer ones with the really small squares. It makes horses work harder trying to pull hay through. This takes more time and concentration – i.e. they will be occupied for a longer period of time. Generally we put an entire bale of hay in each net and hang it between 2 horses – this serves 2 purposes:
• it creates a type of partition between the horses
• both horses can eat at the same time from each side

8. We also keep a broom/pitch fork/shovel in the trailer at all times, making it easier to find when needed.

9. Keep required paperwork for each show in the trailer, for example a copy of Coggins and a health certificate – good for 30 days.

10. Another important item we always have on the trailer is a so-called Emergency kit. Ours contains the following:

• Vet wraps/sterile gauze
• SMZ (pills), both Bute and Banamine in paste form
• Rubbing alcohol
• Band Aids/Lidocaine for severe Sunburn/Tylenol

I am sure that all of you have your own set-up. These are just a few tips – enjoy your horses until we talk again.

We’d like to thank Elly for her wonderful contribution. Do you have any tips you’d like to add when it comes to tailoring your horse? If you do, please leave a comment below!

From our Guest Blogger Elly Schoebel. Entry represents the personal opinion of the blogger and is not formally edited.

Elly Schoebel is a German trained Bereiter FN, Grand Prix rider and trainer, Champion of Selection Trials for World Champion for Young Dressage Horses, breeder/owner of successful Event horses (her mare De Luetje MF was 2012 Future Event Horse Champion). She owns and operates a small dressage training/breeder farm in South Carolina.

Guest Blogger Four Star Eventer Corinne Ashton shares her experience getting herself and her American Thoroughbred gelding Dobbin ready for a three-day event. Entry represents the personal opinion of the blogger and is not formally edited.

Firstly there is the obvious: your horse is sound and fit.  This is true for any level of eventing. Just how many hills you have gone up for your fitness regime depends on the level of competition and the individual horse. Smaller Thoroughbreds, like Dobbin, get fit easily and cause less pounding on their limbs, but work with your vet and trainer to ascertain a good regime.

Equipment! You’ve spent weeks–no months and years — gathering the necessary equipment! Look around, see what others are using, even ask them why and what they like about the tack and gear they’ve chosen. Look in magazines, online and in tack shops, and pick the brains of the staff in tack shops as many are  riders themselves.  I’m a believer in less is more; Dobbin taught me that.  Start with some really good quality equipment, including a well-fitting saddle and bridle.

So from your arsenal of equipment you know what you are going to show in.  How?  Because you’ve done some jump and xc schools, maybe a lower level show or maybe just in a lesson.  That equipment is cleaned and packed in the trailer, if it is not in daily usage. No last minute packing!

In the last few days before the event you can’t really change too much about his training, that was all done in the weeks and months leading up to this, and of course you know you are entering an appropriate level as your trainer(s) approved.  But you can be sympathetic to his needs, is he a horse that likes to be out in the field with his buddies (most do). Then facilitate as much of that as possible, he knows there is an upcoming big competition and needs his nerves soothed.  On that note don’t go overboard but you could add some stomach soothing supplements, I use UlcerGard and Assure® Guard. If you are stabled at the show, hand walk your horse as much as possible.  I know all those Rolex horses will be walked, walked, walked and hand-grazed–very important!

You, the rider, want to look as spiffy as possible, but as with your horse perhaps you don’t want to be sporting first time goods at a big event.  Have a trial run of clothes, break in any new boots, and make sure they are shined before you get there, and most importantly have the best possible safety equipment, helmets and xc vest.  This is an area to spend a little more money on, there are a lot of choices out there, read, ask and try on.  I know I would be happy to share my views with anyone who asked so don’t be afraid to.  And I have some real experience of what such equipment needs to do! Haha!

Also be in the best physical shape possible. There’s no point in having your horse fit and ready and you not.  Go to the gym, take yoga classes, see a chiropractor and other such means to feel your best.  One Rolex I managed to pull a muscle in my lower back (due to some spine misalignment) during my dressage test which resulted in me having to withdraw. Dobbin, however, was in excellent form!  Now that was cruel!

So we all have some phobias and good luck charms that are ok. Go with them.  Some of mine are to wear the same jewelry for the jog up and never cut the horse’s whiskers, the latter being something to do with Samson losing his strength when his hair got cut off or is it just because they use their whiskers as a feeling mechanism? At my first Rolex, I went off to change for the jog and came back to discover one of the helping girls had taken a pair of scissors to Dobbin’s whiskers!  Agh how could I continue? He did however go on to jump clear, proving my theories inaccurate, BUT Dobbin has never had his whiskers cut again!

Last but not least, most of us do this for fun, be as prepared and organized as possible but never forget to appreciate and enjoy your horses and your journey with them!

How do you prepare your horse for a show or event? Leave a comment below!

It is now easier than ever to find the perfect tall boots that look fabulous and fit well!

Tall riding boots should look elegant and be durable, practical and comfortable.  There are so many choices now in leather, design and technology – but a good fit remains the most important factor when shopping for that perfect pair of tall boots.

How to Measure for Stock Tall Riding Boots 

You’ll most likely need to measure when deciding on the proper tall riding boot. This process is much easier if you ask a friend to help with the measurements!

1. Wear the riding clothes (breeches and socks) you usually wear when riding.
2. Sit in a chair with a flat straight seat and place your feet flat on the floor with knees at a 90° angle.
3. Take the measurement around your calf at the widest part.
4. Measure the height from the floor to the back of your knee.

Field Boots

Field boots have laces and are designed for the jumping disciplines. See the Tredstep Donatello Field Boot as an example of this type of boot. Field boots should be purchased taller than the final height required as they will drop, soften and crease around your ankle to allow for the correct leg position when riding.

Trying on Field Boots

When shopping for a new pair of tall boots try on different styles as they will fit differently.

The foot portion should be comfortable – not too tight, but also not too big. The sole should be comfortable, although it will often harder than the sole of a shoe.

You should purchase field boots 1 ½ to 2 inches taller than the final height required. The amount of drop depends on the cut of the boot and the softness of the leather. For field boots for which you want the maximum height after break-in, the front of the boot should rise to the middle of your kneecap. The boots will seem uncomfortably tall and will crease slightly at the top when you bend your knee. This crease will disappear when the boots drop. You can see how high your boot will appear after the break-in phase by placing a heel lift in the footbed to raise your leg inside the boot.

Pull on or zip up your boots. Use boot hooks help get your tall boots on! Initially, they should be difficult to tug on (and off). If your boots have zippers, you should be able to zip them all the way up and snap the closure at the top while standing. The boots should feel snug and tight around your calf without cutting off your circulation.

If the boot is too loose, when it breaks in and stretches it will develop deep folds around your ankle that may press into your skin and cause discomfort. Also, if the boot is too loose, it will drop too much and be too short in height. Boots without a zipper need to be a little difficult to get on and off as they need to fit snugly, and the leather will stretch over time.

Now walk around in the boots you are trying, bend your knees and crouch into a riding position. You may need to try insoles or heel lifts to get a better fit or more comfort.

Breaking-in Field Boots

You can prevent your new tall field boots from rubbing the back of your knees during the break-in period by using a heel lift. Socks such as slippery Zocks that make boots easier to slide on.

Dressage Boots

Dressage boots are made with stiffer leather than field boots, and are designed to drop less. The drop is usually about ¾ inch. Softer, finer leather will drop more than thicker leather. Dressage boots should be high enough at the knee to help achieve an elegant, elongated leg in the saddle. The front of the boot should rise to just under your kneecap. The inside of the boot should be just below the back of the knee once the boots are broken in. For an example of a dressage boot see the Konigs Favorite Dressage Boot.